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FABRICOLOGY

KNITTED VS WOVEN FABRICS

The difference is how the yarn is constructed into fabric.

Woven Knitted
Yarns cross over and under each other Yarn forms a series of interlocking loops
Usually more structured Usually softer and more flexible
Naturally less stretchy Naturally more stretchy
Holds its shape well Moves easily with the body
Often used for shirts, dresses, trousers and jackets Often used for T-shirts, activewear and close-fitting garments
Examples: poplin, sateen, satin, twill, voile Examples: jersey, rib knit, interlock

In simple terms:
Woven = structure and shape.
Knitted = stretch and flexibility.

FIBERS VS WEAVE

A fabric is defined by what it is made from and how it is constructed.

Fiber = what the fabric is made from.
Examples include cotton, silk, linen, viscose, modal, Tencel/lyocell and polyester.

Weave or construction = how the yarns are arranged to create the fabric.
Examples include satin, sateen, twill, poplin, chiffon, georgette, crepe and mulmul.

The same fiber can be made into very different fabrics. For example, viscose can become viscose satin, viscose crepe or viscose georgette.

Likewise, the same construction can use different fibers:

Silk + satin weave → silk satin
Viscose + satin weave → viscose satin
Polyester + satin weave → polyester satin

In simple terms:

The fiber determines much of how a fabric feels and performs; the weave or construction determines much of how it looks, drapes and behaves.

WHAT IS VISCOSE

Viscose is a plant-derived regenerated cellulose fiber, most commonly made from wood pulp. 

The important characteristics of viscose itself are:

  • Very soft against the skin.
  • Highly breathable, making it comfortable in hot weather.
  • Excellent moisture absorption—generally more absorbent than cotton.
  • Beautiful drape because the fibers are relatively supple.
  • Takes color exceptionally well, producing rich, saturated prints.
  • Can have anything from a matte to highly lustrous appearance depending on how the yarn and fabric are constructed.
  • Usually feels cool against the skin.
  • Has relatively low elasticity, so ordinary viscose doesn't naturally spring back like stretch fibers.
  • Weaker when wet than when dry, particularly conventional viscose.
  • Can shrink or distort if washing and finishing aren't properly controlled.
  • Can wrinkle, although this varies enormously with the fabric construction and finishing.

And an important distinction: viscose is the fiber, not the fabric construction. The same viscose fiber can be made into viscose satin, viscose georgette, viscose crepe, viscose chiffon, viscose twill, viscose tabby, etc. That's why two fabrics labeled 100% viscose can look and feel completely different.

 

WHAT IS MODAL

 

Modal is a plant-derived regenerated cellulose fiber, usually made from beechwood or other wood pulp. It belongs to the same broad family as viscose, but is manufactured to produce a stronger, smoother and more dimensionally stable fiber.

Its main characteristics are:

  • Exceptionally soft and smooth against the skin.
  • Fluid, elegant drape, making it particularly suitable for garments.
  • Breathable and comfortable in warm weather.
  • Highly absorbent, helping it feel cool and comfortable.
  • Stronger when wet than conventional viscose.
  • Better resistance to shrinkage and distortion than ordinary viscose.
  • Retains its softness after repeated washing.
  • Takes dyes and prints beautifully, producing rich, saturated colors.
  • Can have a silky, refined surface, particularly when woven as satin.
  • Generally has a more luxurious hand and smoother fall than conventional viscose.

As with viscose, modal describes the fiber rather than the fabric construction. Modal can be woven or knitted into satin, twill, jersey, plain weave and many other fabrics, so 100% modal fabrics can have very different appearances and weights.

A lightweight modal can be airy and flowing, while a heavier modal satin can have a smooth, substantial fall with a soft, pearlescent sheen.

 

WHAT IS TENCEL

TENCEL™ is a branded regenerated cellulose fiber made from wood pulp. The generic fiber is called lyocell; TENCEL™ is the best-known brand of lyocell produced by Lenzing.

Its main characteristics are:

  • Exceptionally smooth and soft against the skin.
  • Strong, both when dry and wet.
  • Excellent drape, with a fluid but substantial feel.
  • Breathable and comfortable in warm weather.
  • Highly absorbent, efficiently managing moisture.
  • Generally more dimensionally stable than conventional viscose.
  • Takes dyes and prints extremely well, producing clear, rich colors.
  • Can have a silky, refined surface or a more matte appearance depending on the weave and finishing.
  • Often has a slightly more structured and substantial hand than very fluid viscose.
  • Can be made into lightweight or heavier fabrics without losing its characteristic smoothness.
  • Generally considered a premium regenerated cellulose fiber.

Like viscose and modal, TENCEL™/lyocell describes the fiber, not the fabric construction. It can be woven into twill, satin, plain weave, linen-like constructions and many other fabrics.

A TENCEL™ twill, for example, can feel smooth, soft and substantial with an elegant controlled drape, while a lighter lyocell fabric can be extremely fluid and silky.

IS VISCOSE THE SAME AS RAYON

Almost, but not exactly.

Rayon is the broad category of regenerated cellulose fibers. Viscose is one type of rayon.

The relationship is:

Rayon
→ Viscose rayon
→ Modal rayon
→ Lyocell (including TENCEL™ lyocell)

So when people say “rayon”, they are often referring to viscose rayon, especially in the US. In many other markets, the same fiber is simply labeled viscose.

Therefore:

Viscose = a type of rayon.
Rayon ≠ necessarily viscose


WHAT IS COTTON MULMUL

Cotton mulmul is an extremely lightweight, soft and breathable cotton fabric, traditionally made using a loose plain weave and fine cotton yarns. It is sometimes also called muslin or mulmul muslin, although the terms are not always used consistently.

Its main characteristics are:

  • Very lightweight and airy
  • Soft against the skin, becoming softer with washing and use
  • Exceptionally breathable, making it ideal for hot and humid climates
  • Highly absorbent because it is cotton
  • Has a soft, natural matte surface
  • Usually has a slightly sheer or translucent appearance
  • Has a gentle, relaxed drape rather than the fluid fall of viscose
  • Takes dyes and prints very well
  • Fine weave gives printed designs a soft, natural character
  • Comfortable for garments worn directly against the skin
  • Can develop a slightly crinkled, relaxed appearance
  • Generally less structured than poplin or cotton sateen

Unlike viscose, modal and Tencel, cotton is a natural fiber that does not need to be regenerated from cellulose. Mulmul describes the fabric construction, while cotton describes the fiber.

For printed garments, cotton mulmul is particularly suited to summer dresses, blouses, scarves, kaftans and other lightweight clothing where softness, breathability and an airy feel are important

WHAT IS COTTON SATEEN

Cotton sateen is a smooth, finely woven cotton fabric made using a sateen weave. This construction exposes more of the cotton yarn on the surface, creating a fabric that is smoother and more lustrous than ordinary plain-weave cotton.

Its main characteristics are:

  • Smooth and soft against the skin
  • Subtle, elegant sheen without looking as glossy as satin
  • Breathable and absorbent, retaining the natural comfort of cotton
  • More substantial and structured than cotton mulmul or voile
  • Has a smooth, clean surface particularly well suited to printing
  • Produces rich colors and crisp print detail
  • Good drape, while retaining enough body to hold a garment's shape
  • Generally less transparent than lightweight cotton fabrics
  • Comfortable and suitable for year-round wear
  • Can wrinkle, although typically with a more polished appearance than very lightweight cottons
  • Durable and practical for everyday garments

Sateen describes the weave, while cotton describes the fiber. It is related to satin in construction, but sateen traditionally refers to this type of weave made predominantly from short-staple fibers such as cotton, whereas satin is commonly associated with filament fibers.

For printed clothing, cotton sateen is particularly good for shirts, dresses, skirts, trousers and lightweight jackets where you want the comfort of cotton combined with a more refined surface, richer print reproduction and a little more body

WHAT IS COTTON POPLIN

Cotton poplin is a smooth, tightly woven cotton fabric made with a plain weave. It has a clean, crisp surface and is widely used for shirts and other garments that benefit from lightweight structure and durability.

Its main characteristics are:

  • Smooth, clean surface
  • Lightweight but structured
  • Breathable and comfortable
  • Soft but crisper than cotton mulmul or sateen
  • Generally matte, with very little sheen
  • Tightly woven, giving it good durability
  • Holds its shape well
  • Produces sharp, detailed prints
  • Takes dyes and colors very well
  • Usually less transparent than voile or mulmul
  • Easy to sew and suitable for tailored garment construction
  • Can crease and wrinkle, as is typical of cotton

Poplin describes the fabric construction rather than the fiber. Although poplin can be made from different fibers or blends, cotton poplin is one of the most common forms.

For printed garments, cotton poplin is particularly suited to button-down shirts, shirt dresses, blouses, skirts and structured tops where a clean surface, crisp silhouette and clear print reproduction are desirable


WHAT IS POLYESTER

Polyester is a synthetic fiber, most commonly made from PET (polyethylene terephthalate), a type of polymer derived primarily from petrochemical raw materials. Unlike cotton or regenerated cellulose fibers such as viscose, polyester is manufactured entirely through an industrial chemical process.

Its main characteristics are:

  • Strong and durable
  • Lightweight
  • Highly resistant to wrinkling and creasing
  • Excellent shape retention
  • Resistant to shrinking and stretching
  • Quick drying because it absorbs very little moisture
  • Can be made matte, silky, glossy or textured
  • Holds pleats and heat-set textures extremely well
  • Excellent color retention
  • Particularly suitable for sublimation printing, producing brilliant, highly detailed colors
  • Resistant to abrasion and everyday wear
  • Easy to wash and maintain
  • Generally less breathable and absorbent than cotton, viscose or modal
  • Can develop static depending on the construction and finish

Polyester describes the fiber, not the fabric construction. It can be made into polyester satin, chiffon, georgette, organza, crepe, twill and many other fabrics, each with very different characteristics.

For printed fabrics, one of polyester's greatest advantages is its compatibility with sublimation printing, which can produce exceptionally vivid, permanent and highly detailed prints that resist fading and washing

 

WHAT IS THE DIFFERFENCE BETWEEN VISCOSE AND POLYESTER
Viscose Polyester
Origin Plant-derived cellulose, usually wood pulp Synthetic polymer, usually petroleum-derived PET
Type Regenerated cellulose fiber Synthetic fiber
Feel Soft, natural, often silky Varies greatly; can be silky, crisp or textured
Breathability High Lower
Moisture absorption High Very low
Hot-weather comfort Excellent Generally less comfortable
Drape Fluid, soft, natural Can drape well, but behaves differently
Wrinkling Wrinkles relatively easily Highly wrinkle resistant
Durability Moderate Very high
Wet strength Lower, especially conventional viscose Very strong
Shrinkage Can shrink Very little
Drying Slower Very fast
Static Relatively low More prone to static
Printing Excellent, rich color Excellent, especially with sublimation
Care Requires more care Very easy care


COMPARE

Cotton Mulmul vs. Cotton Voile

Both are lightweight, breathable cotton fabrics, but they have distinctly different characters.

Cotton Mulmul Cotton Voile
Feel Very soft and gentle Soft with a slightly crisper feel
Surface Soft, relaxed, subtly textured Smooth, fine and even
Drape Soft and relaxed Light and slightly more controlled
Transparency Usually sheer to semi-sheer Usually sheer to semi-sheer
Structure Very little Slightly more structure
Appearance Airy, natural, relaxed Airy, refined, polished
Best suited to Scarves, flowing tops, dresses, kaftans Blouses, shirts, dresses, skirts

Neither is inherently more premium. Fine-quality mulmul has a soft, luxurious character, while voile has a smoother, more polished character.

Cotton Poplin vs. Cotton Sateen

Both are cotton fabrics, but their different weaves give them quite different appearances and behavior.

Cotton Poplin Cotton Sateen
Surface Smooth, clean and matte Very smooth with a subtle sheen
Feel Crisp and fresh Softer and silkier
Drape More structured Softer, more fluid
Sheen Very little Subtle lustre
Weight Usually light to medium Usually medium
Breathability Excellent Excellent
Print appearance Sharp, crisp detail Rich color with a smoother, more luminous appearance
Structure Holds shape well More supple
Best suited to Shirts, blouses, shirt dresses Shirts, dresses, skirts, trousers

In simple terms:

Poplin = crisp, matte and structured.
Sateen = smooth, softer and subtly lustrous

MAIN TYPES OF COTTON

Main Types of Cotton Fabrics

Cotton can be woven in many different ways, creating fabrics with very different characteristics.

Mulmul — exceptionally lightweight, soft and airy, with a relaxed drape and slightly textured character.

Voile — fine, lightweight and breathable, with a smoother surface and slightly crisper feel than mulmul.

Poplin — smooth, tightly woven and matte, with a crisp hand and enough structure to hold its shape well.

Sateen — smooth and soft with a subtle sheen, richer surface and more fluid drape than poplin.

Twill — characterized by a subtle diagonal weave; stronger, more substantial and durable, with good drape.


Main Types of Modal Fabrics

Modal can be made into a range of fabrics with very different characteristics.

Modal Satin — exceptionally smooth, soft and fluid, with an elegant sheen and luxurious drape.

Modal Twill — soft and substantial with a subtle diagonal weave, combining fluidity with greater body.

Modal Jersey — soft, stretchy and comfortable knitted fabric, commonly used for T-shirts and other garments worn close to the skin.

Modal Plain Weave — lightweight, breathable and smooth, with a more natural, understated appearance.

Modal Crepe — soft and fluid with a subtly textured surface and less sheen than satin.

They can all be 100% modal, although modal is also frequently blended with cotton, elastane and other fibers. Their different characteristics come from the construction, weight and finishing, rather than from a change in the modal fiber itself

Canvas — heavier, firm and highly durable, used when greater structure and strength are required.

The important point is that they can all be 100% cotton. The differences come primarily from the yarn, weave, weight and finishing rather than the fiber itself.


Main Types of Viscose Fabrics

Viscose can be woven into many different fabrics, each with a distinct appearance and feel.

Viscose Satin — smooth, fluid and lustrous, with an elegant drape and silky surface.

Viscose Crepe — soft and fluid with a subtly textured, slightly grainy surface and generally matte appearance.

Viscose Georgette — lightweight and flowing with a fine, slightly crinkled texture; often semi-sheer.

Viscose Chiffon — very lightweight, sheer and airy, with a delicate, flowing character.

Viscose Twill — soft and substantial with a subtle diagonal weave, combining fluidity with more body and durability.

Viscose Plain Weave / Tabby — simple, lightweight and breathable, with a more natural, understated surface.

They can all be 100% viscose. Their differences come primarily from the yarn, weave, weight and finishing, rather than the fiber itself.

TYPES OF KNITS

Jersey

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Lightweight, soft and flexible with good drape. Widely used for T-shirts, tops and dresses.

Interlock

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A double-knit construction that is smoother, thicker and more stable than jersey.

Rib Knit

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5

Characterized by vertical ribs with excellent stretch and recovery.

Piqué

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6

A knit with a distinctive raised, textured surface, commonly used for polo shirts.

French Terry

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Smooth on the face with characteristic soft loops on the reverse.

Fleece

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A knit with a brushed surface that creates softness, warmth and volume.

Ponte / Double Knit

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Dense, smooth and structured with controlled stretch and good shape retention.